How difficult is the climbing pumori expedition?

The difficulty of the climbing and expeditions depends on the mountain to be climbed. Some mountains require vertical climbing or have steep and difficult snow and ice-covered slopes. You will need appropriate climbing experience for each climb. Some of the 'trekking peaks' are easier to climb, but you still need proper equipment and require some mental and physical fitness.

Do I need Climbing/ Expedition Permit?

Yes, it is compulsory to have a climbing/expedition permit if you wish to climb a trekking peak or gone on a mountain climbing expedition. There are 33 trekking peaks whose permit cost is far less than expeditions to high mountains. Permits for trekking peaks are issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association. Please visit www.nepalmountaineering.org. The higher mountains require a permit from the Nepal Government – Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation - for more information visit www.tourism.gov.np.

What kind of Climbing equipment need during Climbing/expedition?

Boots, Torch, Towel, Sun block, Documents, Monies, Book, Toiletries pouch, Sunglasses, First aid pouch, Fanny pack/belt pack, Day pack, Backpack, Thermal underwear, Underpants/panties, Socks, Trousers, Jacket, etc.

Pumori Expedition

Pumori Expedition is a challenging high-altitude climb of a mountain peak rising above 7,000 meters. Mount Pumori (7,161m) is one of the most demanding 7,000-meter expeditions in the Nepalese Himalayas. Situated on the Nepal-China border within the Mahalangur Himal range, Pumori lies about 8.5 kilometers west of Mount Everest and 4.5 kilometers from Nuptse. In the Sherpa language, “Pumori” means “Unmarried Daughter,” a name given by the famous mountaineer George Mallory.

The first successful ascent was made by a German-Swiss team including Gerhard Lenser on May 17, 1962, via the Southeast face. Later, in 1996, Leopold Sulovsky and Zdenek Michalec from the Czech Republic climbed a new route on the South face. An important nearby landmark is Kala Patthar (5,643m), which appears as a large brown bump beneath Pumori’s impressive south face.

Since 1962, nearly 600 climbers have reached Pumori’s summit. The peak offers some of the best views of Mount Everest and spectacular sights of Tibet, including the Rongbuk Glacier. The summit has been climbed mainly via the Southeast and Southwest routes, with the Southeast route being the standard path. According to Nepal’s Department of Tourism, the summit coordinates are 28°00’53″N latitude and 86°49’41″E longitude. Both spring and autumn seasons are ideal for climbing Pumori.

This expedition is suited for climbers seeking a demanding 7,000-meter climb within about a month. The route requires technical climbing skills and prior experience on 8,000-meter peaks or similar high-altitude expeditions, along with excellent physical fitness.

The western flank of Pumori is particularly technical and challenging. Climbers ascending via the Southwest or East face must scale a 1,000-meter wall of glacial blue ice, with slopes ranging from 50–55 degrees and occasional steep bulges reaching 70 degrees. Sherpa guides, such as Satori, set fixed ropes to assist climbers on this ice wall. Climbers and porters need to develop a steady rhythm of foot placements while using jumars to pull themselves up.

The standard Southeast approach follows the famous Khumbu region trail, leading to the Khumbu Glacier and Lobuche (4,750m). After a scenic half-hour flight to Lukla—known as the gateway to Khumbu—you trek through Namche Bazaar (3,400m), Tengboche (3,800m), Pheriche (4,200m), Lobuche (4,710m), Gorak Shep (5,150m), and finally to Everest/Lhotse Base Camp (5,200m). It typically takes 8–9 days from Kathmandu to reach the Advanced Base Camp.

Along the way, climbers enjoy stunning views of the Himalayas, visit the Sherpa and Hillary museums, experience unforgettable views of Mount Everest and the Tibetan plateau, explore diverse flora and fauna, and visit the historic Tengboche Monastery. This makes the expedition both a physical challenge and a culturally rich experience.

Accomodation
Hotel/ Tea hours/ camping
Best Season
Autumn - Spring
Maximum Altitude
7119m.
Transportation
Car/Flight/ Jeep/ Tourist Bus
Walking Hours
5/6 hours

Overview

Itinerary

Cost

FAQs

Overview

Itinerary

Cost

FAQs

Overview

Alpine Treks Nepal follows the standard route on the Southeast ridge, a grade 3 snow and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude. Alpine Treks Nepal always sets up II to III camps above the base camp at 5300m. Climb through the glaciers and knife-edged ridge of hill side for about 4-5 hours and reach Camp I at 5700m. From camp I, we climb the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp II at 6200m. From camp II, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach camp III at 6500m. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.

Trip Highlights

Mount Pumori expedition (7,161m) is a technically demanding climb, ideal for experienced mountaineers.
Mount Pumori is Located on the Nepal-China border, 8.5 km west of Everest and 4.5 km from Nuptse.
The peak was First climbed in 1962 by Gerhard Lenser on a German-Swiss expedition via the Southeast face.
Named "Pumori," meaning "Unmarried Daughter," by English mountaineer George Mallory.
Offers stunning panoramas of Everest, Nuptse, Rongbuk Glacier, and the Tibetan Plateau.
Climbers face a 1,000m ice wall with gradients of 50-70 degrees, requiring advanced skills.
The route passes through Lukla, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Pheriche, and Gorak Shep to Base Camp.
Visit Tengboche Monastery, Sherpa villages, and the Hillary Museum.
Trek through Sagarmatha National Park, home to unique flora and fauna.

Day 01 :

Arrival in Kathmandu and Transfer to hotel:

As your flight descends into Kathmandu, the breathtaking views of snow-capped Himalayan peaks to your right will leave you in awe. Upon arrival, our representative will greet you warmly in true Nepali style at the airport and escort you to your hotel. Once you’ve checked in, enjoy a welcome drink as you settle in. In the evening, we will gather for a cultural dinner program, where the detailed itinerary will be discussed, setting the tone for an exciting journey ahead.

Day 02 :

Preparation, Briefings, and Permit Formalities:

After lunch, you will meet your expedition leader, who will assist you in checking all your equipment to ensure it is in proper working condition. Following the equipment check, the leader will provide a detailed briefing about the expedition, including potential challenges you might face and strategies to overcome them. This session will also include important instructions to ensure your safety and success. The day will also involve finalizing any necessary formalities for permits and giving you time for any last-minute shopping for essential gear or supplies.

Day 03 :

Fly to Lukla and Trek to Phakding (2652m-4 Hrs.):

Your adventure begins with a flight to Lukla, offering thrilling aerial views of the Himalayan peaks. The landing at Lukla is an unforgettable experience, marking the start of your trek. Upon arrival, you'll follow well-marked trails through picturesque landscapes and traditional Sherpa villages. The hike to Phakding is a relatively easy introduction, allowing you to acclimatize to the altitude. Once you reach Phakding, you'll settle into a cozy teahouse where you'll spend the night, surrounded by the serene mountain atmosphere.

Day 04 :

Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m):

After an early breakfast, your trek truly begins. The trail from Phakding takes you through beautiful pine forests and alongside the Dudh Koshi River, crossing several suspension bridges adorned with prayer flags. As you pass through small villages and interact with the locals, you'll get a glimpse into the rich culture of the Khumbu region.

Midway, you’ll reach the entrance to Sagarmatha National Park, where your permits will be checked before continuing. The trail then ascends steeply, challenging your stamina as you approach Namche Bazaar, the bustling hub of the Everest region. Upon arrival, you’ll settle into a comfortable hotel with good facilities, where you’ll spend the night and begin acclimatizing to the altitude.

Day 05 :

Rest & acclimatization, explore Everest View Hotel (3800m):

Acclimatization is crucial for a successful trek in this region as you ascend to higher altitudes. Today is dedicated to helping your body adjust while you enjoy exploring the vibrant Namche Bazaar, known for its lively atmosphere with restaurants, pubs, coffee shops, and local markets. You can also visit the historic Khunde Hospital, established by Sir Edmund Hillary, to learn about its significance in the region. For a more scenic experience, take a leisurely one-hour walk up to the Everest View Hotel, situated above Namche. From this viewpoint, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of Ama Dablam, Nuptse, Lhotse, and Everest. Watching the sunset from here is an unforgettable highlight of the trek. After exploring, return to Namche Bazaar for the night.

Day 06 :

Trek to Tengboche (3,870m):

Your day begins with a gentle walk, passing through lush forests of rhododendron and pine as you make your way to Phunki Tenga, a small settlement by the river. From here, the trail ascends steadily through beautiful landscapes until you reach the village of Tengboche, home to the renowned Tengboche Monastery, the largest in the Everest region.

Tengboche is located within Sagarmatha National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and offers stunning panoramic views of the Himalayas, including Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku. You’ll have time to visit the monastery, where the serene atmosphere adds to the magic of the place. Spend the night in Tengboche, surrounded by the tranquility of the mountains.

Day 07 :

Trek to Dingboche (4,410m):

The day begins with a descent through lush forests of birch, conifer, and rhododendron trees, offering stunning natural scenery. Following the trail, you’ll pass through the village of Debuche and cross the Imja River via a suspension bridge. As you continue, the route takes you through Pangboche, a village rich in Sherpa culture, with opportunities to visit ancient monasteries.

The trek then enters the picturesque Imja Valley before crossing the Lobuche River. The final stretch involves a steady ascent to Dingboche, a quaint and charming village surrounded by barley, potato, and buckwheat fields. Grazing yaks and other livestock add to the bucolic atmosphere of this scenic location. You’ll spend the night in Dingboche, where the beauty of the Himalayan landscape is sure to captivate you.

Day 08 :

Trek to Lobuche (4,940m):

The trail becomes increasingly demanding as you ascend to higher altitudes. The journey begins with a climb to the steep terminal moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, where the rugged beauty of the landscape becomes more apparent. The trail winds through boulder-strewn slopes, leading to Chupki Lhara, a prominent ridge that offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding peaks.

From there, the path traverses over craggy mountain terrain as you approach Lobuche, a small settlement nestled among the towering Himalayas. Lobuche offers breathtaking views of Mt. Lobuche, Mt. Pumori, and Nuptse. You’ll spend the night here, preparing for the next phase of your adventure in this serene and picturesque setting.

Day 09 :

Rest and Acclimatization at Lobuche (4,940m):

Today is reserved for rest and acclimatization, allowing your body to adjust to the increasing altitude and prepare for the challenging days ahead. Lobuche’s location amidst the towering peaks offers an excellent opportunity to relax and soak in the breathtaking scenery.

You can take a short acclimatization hike to nearby vantage points, such as the ridges around Lobuche, where you’ll be rewarded with awe-inspiring views of Mt. Lobuche, Nuptse, and the Khumbu Glacier. These hikes also help your body adapt to the altitude while offering a glimpse of the rugged Himalayan terrain.

Day 10 :

Trek to Gorakshep (5,170m):

Today’s trek takes you closer to the base of your ultimate goal, Mt. Pumori (7,161m). The trail to Gorakshep is relatively short but challenging due to the altitude. You’ll follow the rugged moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, traversing uneven terrain as you make your way toward this small, high-altitude settlement.

As you trek, you’ll be treated to breathtaking views of iconic peaks, including Pumori, Nuptse, and Everest. Gorakshep, situated at 5,170m, serves as the last stop before Everest Base Camp and the gateway to the Pumori Base Camp. After reaching Gorakshep, you’ll have time to rest, acclimatize further, and prepare for the upcoming climb.

Day 11 :

Trek to Pumori Base camp (5300m Hrs.):

Today, you’ll take a short but rewarding trek to Pumori Base Camp, your starting point for the expedition to Mt. Pumori (7,161m). The trail is relatively gradual, with stunning views of the surrounding peaks, including Everest, Nuptse, and, of course, Pumori itself. As you ascend, the rugged terrain and glacial surroundings serve as a reminder of the adventure ahead.

Upon reaching Pumori Base Camp, you’ll set up camp amidst a dramatic Himalayan backdrop. The rest of the day will be spent organizing gear, acclimatizing, and preparing for the higher camps. Overnight at the base camp, with the serene beauty of the mountains setting the stage for the challenges to come.

Day 12 :

28, Climbing period Summit Pumori (7 161m):

This is the actual climbing period of Pumori and providing a detailed plan of day-to-day wouldn’t be convincing. The expedition leader determines which pace suits the team. The first few days will be for training for climbing, organizing food, practising rope skills, and acclimatizing before moving above the base camp. Three Camps shall be passed before we arrive at the summit. The Base camp is at an altitude of 5300m, and the first camp will be set up at an altitude of 5,650 m, at the phase of Mt. Pumori. The second camp will be set up at an altitude of 6,000m, and the third camp will be at an altitude of 6,480m. From Camp 3 we wait for the perfect weather conditions to climb the summit of the Mt. Pumori.

Day 13 :

29,Descend to Gorakshep (5,170m):

After completing the challenging and rewarding summit of Mt. Pumori (7,161m), you’ll begin your descent back to Gorakshep. The trek down is a chance to reflect on your incredible achievement while navigating the rugged terrain with care. As you retrace your steps along the moraine of the Khumbu Glacier, you will be accompanied by familiar views of the surrounding peaks.

Day 14 :

30,Trek via Lobuche (5,218m) to Dingboche (4,410m):

Descend from Gorakshep, retracing your steps through Lobuche before continuing to Dingboche. The trail offers stunning views of Pumori, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam, with a mix of rugged glacier terrain and scenic valleys. After a brief rest at Lobuche, proceed through the peaceful Imja Valley to reach Dingboche, where you’ll spend the night surrounded by serene mountain landscapes.

Day 15 :

31,Trek to Tengboche (3,860m – 5 Hours):

Begin your descent from Dingboche to Tengboche, following a scenic trail through the Imja Valley and dense rhododendron forests. The trek offers mesmerizing views of Ama Dablam and other Himalayan peaks. Upon arrival in Tengboche, you’ll once again have the opportunity to visit the famous Tengboche Monastery and enjoy the tranquillity of this spiritual mountain setting. Overnight in Tengboche.

Day 16 :

32,Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m):

Descend from Tengboche to Namche Bazaar, following a well-trodden trail through lush forests and alongside the Dudh Koshi River. The path offers stunning views of the surrounding peaks and opportunities to spot local wildlife. Upon reaching Namche Bazaar, you can relax and enjoy the vibrant atmosphere of this bustling Sherpa town. Overnight in Namche Bazaar.

Day 17 :

33,Trek to Lukla (2,840m ):

Today marks the final day of trekking as you descend from Namche Bazaar to Lukla. The trail leads through dense forests, suspension bridges, and charming Sherpa villages, offering a mix of downhill and gentle ascents. Upon reaching Lukla, you can celebrate the successful completion of your trek and relax in this lively mountain town. Overnight in Lukla.

Day 18 :

34, Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu and Hotel Transfer:

In the morning, take a scenic flight from Lukla back to Kathmandu, bidding farewell to the majestic Himalayas. Upon arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, you’ll be transferred to your hotel. The rest of the day is free for you to relax, explore the city, or do some last-minute shopping. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Day 19 :

35,Contingency Day in Kathmandu and Farewell Celebration Dinner:

This contingency day is reserved to account for any potential delays or adjustments in the schedule. You can use the day to relax at your hotel, explore Kathmandu’s cultural landmarks, or shop for souvenirs in the bustling markets.

In the evening, join us for a special farewell celebration dinner featuring authentic Nepali cuisine and cultural performances to commemorate the successful completion of your expedition. Overnight in Kathmandu.

Day 20 :

36,Transfer to the Airport for Final Departure:

Your incredible journey comes to an end today. After breakfast, our representative will transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport for your final departure. We bid you farewell with cherished memories of your expedition and hope to welcome you back for another adventure in the future. Safe travels!

Cost

Cost Includes

All arrival and departure transfers to and from Airport both domestic and international.
3 Nights 3-star category Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan as per itinerary.
1:1 experienced private climbing Sherpa guide during trek and climbing pumori.
Flight tickets for Kathmandu-Manthali-Lukla and VV to the climbing member and his guide.
Complete camping setup with dining & kitchen tents, chairs, and tables in Advance Base Camp.
Necessary shower and toilet tents, individual member tents in ABC.
One each tent for member & Sherpa sharing in Camp 1, 2, and 3.
Solar panel/generator for light and battery charge in Advance Base Camp.
Three meals a day (BLD, tea-coffee) and twin-sharing tea house accommodation during trek.
Freshly cooked 3 meals (BLD), tea or coffee by Everest Alpine Trekking professional cook in Advance Base Camp.
Freshly cooked hot meal at Camp 2, prepared by our Camp-2 cook.
40 kg personal baggage while trekking up and 30 kg while down carried by porter.
Expedition royalty and climbing permit for climbing Mt. Pumori (7,161m).
Fully paid government-appointed liaison officer in the team.
Necessary kitchen staff and camp manager in a sharing plan at ABC.
Medical, accidental, and search and rescue insurance for all involved local staff.
All rope fixing and Icefall management charges levied in the Expedition.
Emergency oxygen mask and regulator in ABC for medical purposes only.
Satellite phone in ABC available for members with a cost of US$ 4 per minute call.
First Aid medical kits for the Group and the staff.
Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
Farewell Dinner in a typical Nepali restaurant with a domestic cultural show in Kathmandu.

Cost Excludes

Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
Expenses for usage of landlines, mobiles, walkie-talkies, satellite phone, and Internet.
Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, camera/video fees, or trekking gear.
Climbing Sherpa Guide, high-altitude food, and tents above ABC (Camp 1, 2, 3 & 4).
Any extra expenses arising from unforeseen situations such as natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, or changes in government regulations.
Any additional staff other than those specified.
Oxygen bottles, masks, and regulators for the member.
Rescue, medicines, medical tests, and hospitalization expenses of the member.
Medical and travel insurance, including helicopter search and rescue.
Permits for walkie-talkies and filming if using a special camera.
Personal climbing gear.
Nepal customs duty for the import of expedition goods.
Tips to Base Camp Staff (minimum US$300, per member).
Any other item not mentioned in the “The Package Cost Includes” section.

Pumori Expedition

Trip Info

Overview

Itinerary

Cost

FAQs